Welcome to Beauty School, a series where I’ll share tips and tricks to creating some of my favorite looks. One thing I’ve always done on set is have the photographer take a photo of the model before we start hair and makeup. I like to see the model first without a stitch of makeup on, so I understand her face...

I discovered Sarmishta when she was a hostess at a popular restaurant in Montclair a few years ago. What struck me in looking at her beautiful face was not only her skin color (I have a thing for that real nude lip color), but the natural openness of her features. Since our first shoot, I’ve had her back a few more times to try new looks. This one was all about a bold lip and lashes.

SKIN & CHEEKS

To get this look, a peach-toned corrector was first applied under the eyes to brighten up darkness. I discovered that peach was the tone that color corrected darkness on Indian skin best. It also works well on some medium and warmer skin tones.

A full coverage foundation was used to even out her skin and provide a more polished look. I swept a pinky-red blush on the cheek and across her forehead.

LIPS

Here I went with a matte lip in a rich wine tone. I used a matte formula because the application is great, but it still looks real and not overlined. It’s not always easy to apply lipstick straight from the tube, so I used a lip brush first and then a pencil in the exact same color to fix the corners of her mouth.

EYES

I outlined her eyes with a black, felt tip ink liner and used a black pencil to line the inside of the bottom lid. I used a soft black shadow over the liner and smudged it to bring out her eyes. This mix of liners creates depth and gives her a sexy look. I used a soft, white powder shadow under the brow bone and on the middle of her lid to open up the eye.

We also added individual lashes (which I always have my assistants help with, I’ve never quite mastered them) to add depth. They make a strong statement but are still chic. You can also get the look by applying multiple layers of a thickening mascara — the key is applying each layer before the one before dries completely.